Any truck tire/trailer puller experts out there?

[Headrope]

Could use some help making a decision. It's kind of like sport quad or utility atv - but with truck tires.

A guy I know at work is selling almost new wheels and tires off his F350 that I'd love to put on mine. And since the price is one of those no-f'in-way deals I'm actually interested (I'm a cheap bastard).

But here's the deal: The stock tires I have are LT275/70/R18. Load range E. His are 285/80or85forgot as I was typing this/R16. Load range D.

I'm thinking the load range should be fine as I really only pull trailer with my truck. The trailer loaded weighs just about 13,000 pounds and has a 1300 pound tongue weight - well below the limits of what I could haul. What I'm concerned about are two things: fuel economy and ride height

* His tires are pickup tires, mine are road warriors; I'd prefer to have some extra width and tread for pulling in the sand but not if I'm sacrificing a butt load of fuel economy - especially since their use in the sand would be rare compared to the use over the road.
* His tires look taller than mine but his wheels are two sizes smaller (shorter)

I'm guessing I'm not the first who pulls a toy hauler to have to decide on economy or utility. And I want both.

[LittleBuddha]

If you are really pulling 13,000 pounds I would recommend against anything lower than an E.  Being a cheap bastard is one thing (me too) but I don't screw around when it comes to tires.  Especially pulling.  Have you ever had a blow out while towing?  I have and it sucks ass. 

[Headrope]

I have. It sucked ass, nearly made me shit myself and was otherwise miserable because my truck has single rear wheels (not a dually).

D range should be within parameters, if I've read everything correctly.

I am a cheap bastard but I would never put that before safety.

[LittleBuddha]

My other concern is in the sidewall.  If the wheels are smaller and the tire is taller you're gonna get a lot of stress on the sidewall.  I went with 285's on my 2500HD and that was the max with the stock wheels and I felt the sidewall move initially.  It's gotten better.  I pull a 30' fifth wheel toy hauler with about the same weight.  I wouldn't run that set up if it were me, but that's just my .02

[Headrope]

Are you also SWD or a dually?

[socalrappy700]

He's SWD.

[preddy08]

First off DONT put D range tires on a truck that is pulling anything over 10,000 lbs. Hell I have E range and get scared about my 10,000 camper. Just no way I would do it.


Also, If you have 18" wheel and you want to put 16"ers on chances are it wont clear the brake rotor.

Is yours a diesel? if so gas milage is rarely hurt by over sized tires.

[Headrope]

Good point about the brakes. I hadn't thought of that. The wheels and tires came off a 2002 F350 but the brakes might be different on my '05 F350. It's something to check out.

Yes, mine is diesel. But the guy who ran the wheels/tires before me was also diesel and he lost 2MPG when he put them on. Two miles per gallon is not a lot when just making short trips but when driving a couple of hundred miles each way to ride those 2MPGs start to add up.

[Headrope]

OK. I've decided against the wheels and tires. They would have only cost me $500 (they have less than 50 miles on them) but I'd prefer to go with E range tires.

Thanks, y'all, for the input.

[ThisGuyAlex]

load range d is fine for hauling until you get up to pulling a massive toy hauler or something over 2500lbs or so

[preddy08]

You could go up to that weight, but the E range is good for slow tire wear and piece of mind.

Just think that you have a 40,000 dollar truck and a 40,000 camper and a couple of bad ass toys in it. Not to mention your family and freinds. You might as well spend the extra hundy or so to get some good towing tires.

[disco]

What exactly is the diff in D rated and E rated tires?  The load ratings on mine are the same.  Originally came with E but when I bought new BFGs all I could find was D rated.  Probably go with Nitto next time, they have E range.  All I can figure is the sidewalls are heavier in the E rated tires, they handle the heat better or maybe they are longer wearing to deal with carrying loads all the time.  I have exceeded GVW... oops public forum, exactly hit my GVW once for sure and I was pretty nervous despite a balanced load.  SRW here too so I busted out the tire gauge and everything before I hit the road.

I'm definately going back to E rated tires next time.  I haven't had a single problem with my current tires but peace of mind is nice.

Here's an off topic sort of question.  How do the hot shot drivers exceed their GVWs and get away with it?  Is there a process to increase your GVW or do they just run overweight until they get a ticket?  I see one ton trucks all the time with three 6000 pound trucks on the back.  They are weighing in at 24,000# without even counting the trailer.

[Headrope]

I have done quite a bit of research on this since creating the post and my understanding is that the main difference between D and E series tires is the sidewall. E-series are stronger sidewalled (look: a new word) than D-series, which is why they can hold more air pressure. And because of the stronger sidewall, and more air pressure, they are supposedly less likely to roll over the bead.

As for the one-tons pulling three - my guess is that they either have a commercial license, which magically ups the max tow rating, or the department of transportation thinks they do when they drive by.

[1FST690]

If the hotshotters are under 26,000 GCWR they do not need a CDL. I they are 26,001 or higher GCWR they absolutly need a CDL and hav to abide by a different set of rules. But just having a CDL does not mean they follow the rules, there is a lot of routes around a scale station.

[russ-russ]

FWIW, the 16" rims would not fit your truck, in '05 Ford upped the size of the brakes and only 17" or larger wheels will clear.