need help setting up for 150ft drags

[r00st]

I say we do it RIGHT! Make some solid struts to SLAM the hell out of it - 10-15 bucks
Two 25x12x9 tires - 80 bucks

for 100 bucks I bet we could take a few tenths off compared to running as is. You convinced me to buy that axle, now its your turn again

[1badazz_700r]

The kit in my last post is the same as the one im selling. the crj onlymounts to the stock shock location. this one mounts to the lower a-arm bolts and the shock mount

[Bert]

The kit in my last post is the same as the one im selling. the crj onlymounts to the stock shock location. this one mounts to the lower a-arm bolts and the shock mount

I was able to compare both lowering kits & the CRJ will lower the quad more, that's why I went that route.  The Ebay kit is great as well no question about it. 15T & 20" tires or 14/15 & 22" tires.   

[Krandall]

How much for your lowering kit   

[SUB454]

I wish I had some good advise, but I'm still trying to get 300ft figured out.

[digitalhearing]

I'd run the 15t.. 150 is nothing. You'll see maybe through 3rd gear. Might as well stretch it out a bit and let the raptors torque pull you through

I agree with Krandall, if you can get to the finish line topped out in 3rd you'll kick butt, i think the 15 tooth will give you close to the right gearing 38 (stock) in the rear.  Good luck and let us know how it goes.

Grant

[powder coater]

Why would you set the rear shock to soft. Wouldn'T that make the bike want to wheelie easier? I put the struts all the way around on mine and it decreased the wheelie problem by 50%

[Colorado700R]

In my dirt/gravel experience the softer I made the rear the less wheels spin I got. It does wheelie easier, but with practice I was much quicker that way.

[1badazz_700r]

You will never top it out in 3rd gear in 150' with a 15t. i wasnt toped out in 3rd in 300' with 14t. krandall i would let the front and rear lowering kit go for $75.00 shipped with insurance

[jwraptor]

With my bike the 13 tooth shocked the tires too much (to much wheel hop) where the 15 let it roll smoother.   On my bike with the 13 tooth you needed to shift to 3rd at about 75 ft.  My times dropped and mph went up with the 15 tooth.

[1badazz_700r]

I agree with the 13t being to low. I run a 14t with20" tires and launch in 2nd shift 3rd when its time and im still not wound out in 3rd crossing the 300' line. alot depends on track condition and prep. here they flood the track at the start line with water making a shit load of mud. with the 15t it boggs to much on a second gear launch and 1st gear launch is looking at the sky so i have to use the 14t 2nd gear launch. So i guess the 15t might work better for grass.Hopefully both combinations are tried and results posted for future help

[Bert]

How much for your lowering kit   

New its $64  make an offer    Never installed.

[Krandall]

Why aren't you using it mr. Ice racer Extrodinaire. 

[Bert]

CRJ kit works fine for flat track riding/racing I really don't need 2 front lowering kits.  I have a GtThunder rear link & the CRJ adjustable rear link as well.  They can also be for sale.  I don't know jack about ice racing, just trying to help 

[1FST690]

I dont have any 150' experiance but I do have some 300'. I also have a 660 based but the theories should still apply. 1st thing I would do is find a spot with the same surface you will be racing on and make some practice runs. I ran 14-40 at Sandfest in 500' and was running 72mph. At dunefest I switched to 12-40 running 300' and picked up almost 4 mph. Both races were done with the same tires and relative pressure. I also launch 2nd gear and end the run in 4th. If I were you I would deffinatly strut it all the way around. 1" square tube with some holes drilled in it work great. Lower the frame until the rear swinger is parallel with the ground and bottom of the frame. Measure for your strut length.On the rear strut drill 3 holes at the lower link mounting point, 1 that is at the measurement of the frame w swinger parallel, and the 1 on each side of that 1" above and below. This ill allow you some tuning for track condition. If its spinning, lower the rear, if its biting too hard, raise it. I would probably run a 14 tooth front no matter what tire you choose and either a 38 or 40 rear depending on overall height of the tire. Good luck and have fun, let me know how it turns out!