Question for those who have experience on dyno's (or have been dyno'd)

[r00st]

Nice, thanks for the info.
Which CP are you running now, a shelf piston? What compression?

[1badazz_700r]

im running the cp 12:1 off the shelf and it works perfect no issues what so ever

[r00st]

Are you mixing race gas or running straight pump? Whats your elevation?

Do you happen to know if the CP shelf pistons are corrected compression? (ie..12:1 is truly 12:1 and not 11.4:1).

Sorry for all the questions but I want to make sure I know what im getting. I want this to be the LAST time I pull this damn thing apart! lol

[1badazz_700r]

Im not sure about the compression. It is a corrected deck height piston because it set right at the top of the cylinder. i guess the older ones sat in the hole a little.I run race fuel to be on the safe side because my +5 crank up's the compression by .7. Call racers edge and seewhat they say

[09RappySE]

I have a quad out there doing about 57hp with the same tires and the build probably does feel lazy until it gets traction. He does a pretty good job of cleaning up the competition at the track on a trail build  It would be funny if the tires had a limit of like 57 hp and gave up like a clutch or something

Now who would that be kenny .....actually before too long my clutch will be gone, I hate dyno's...my bike is possesed :'(

[r00st]

LOL I knew he was talking about you, Jeff!

Did you do anything new to your bike? She still kicking pretty good?

Hopefully once I get this damn piston deal worked out I will have a reliable (non smoking..) build I wont be afraid to thrash on.

[Alkire193]

Ok this all confuses me. Im tossing a CP 11:1 piston in mine but it seems like a loss with basically all the same mods. Different tires, but should he or I be running a different piston like a 12:1 or 11.5:1?

[1badazz_700r]

if you have the stroker crankthat will up your compression by around .7. The question is if you want to run pump gas i would go with the 11:1. If you want to run race fuel go either 12:1 or 13:1 your choice

[09RappySE]

No, nothing new...I am getting ready to add a big bore kit and spray (20 shot), but so far I could'nt be happier with my build....I really enjoy beating a good amount of bikes that are lowered and set up for drag with strapped tires and then ridding off into the trails that always spins them up

[Alkire193]

Ok, just got confused for a sec, if I spent all this money to pull 10hp and 11tq im gonna flip. But like everyone says "Its if the bike feels faster, not the dyno numbers"

[r00st]

Dont worry a stock bore build is pretty solid even if you go basic with a stock valved head port, drop in 11:1 and even an HCIII!

Power is power...just remember that dyno's are more for tuning than they are for bragging. Differences in dyno's alone can yield up to 10%. Some dyno's are stingy, some are as loose as 5 dollar hooker.

Not to mention the MILLION other factors (dyno operators ability to tune, ignition, intake setup, atmospheric conditions, anything in the driveline (heavy tires/chain) ETC ETC ETC). Dont worry no matter what your build is, it will put a smile on your face

At this point in time I cant just make a blanket statement that my build blows...cuz in reality it could be one problem or it could be a half dozen. As of right now the one thing I know is im burning oil. This obviously means im down on power (even if its only 1-2). That combined with the fact I had heavy ass tires/wheels on the dyno, which then means I could have been spinning.

If I had no oil leaking, dyno tires, a perfect tune, perfect ignition mapping and whatever else you can think of my numbers could have been another 10hp/5 ft lbs!

Although im quite confident im not spinning my tires one thing that was brought to my attention is the possiblity im spinning the tires on the wheels (Thanks, Jeff!). I need to check this out as well.

I will have some new parts coming in shortly and (pending im not piss as broke again) I will try to get back on the dyno. First with just a new piston and then possibly swapping cams so I can decide which setup suits my riding the best.

[Kenny]

I feel like you have a ton of power left in tuning once you get the oiling problem taken care of. I can probably help you out on the legwork for cam testing. We will have a dyno AND a track test comparing the RJ to the Web 4 (timed of course) with a Bo head. Then the swap to my head. The RJ has turned out to be a bit stronger on the track than I originally thought.

I think you are gonna want to go with the FCI intake to broaden the powerband another 300 RPM or so and an extra 3Hp in the overrev. If you want more power up top, I can retard your cam 4° for another 300 or so RPM.

Jeff and one of my other customers have told me today that they are spinning the wheels in the tires quite a bit in a short amount of runs, but I don't think it could possibly be enough to affect dyno numbers. I also don't think you are at that level of performance yet. We just need to get you dialed in so you'll be happy with the build

[DL700]

what  Bo head? STK valve or +1?... buy the track u mean fat drags?

[Kenny]

what  Bo head? STK valve or +1?... buy the track u mean fat drags?

Yes + 1 and on the flat drags. This is not intended to be a test between Bo's head and mine. This is to prove how a combination works together. We are already at a disadvantage with the RJ cam because of traction problems with the Web 4. It is probably gonna be worse. We will have reaction times etc. I already have guys running X-country stuff that say there is no comparison between cams in that venue, so I am curious how they stack up on the dragstrip

[DL700]

changing cams like that will need a tire and gearing change to accomidate each.....
ive found that sacrificing some of the mid range torque and gearing it to load up the motor in 2nd gear launches produces a stronger and much more consistent launch, but in turn causes shift points and rpm to be more critical......but its all good, i have the rpm range to work with,  my current setup optimal shift rpm is 8500 rpm....

SETUP/TIRES AND GEARING are much more important the a few HP