pulling the engine for a +5 crank. have some questions.

[Alkire193]

Sigh...severe laziness has got a grip on me, but i'm sure my roommate will get some pullers for his most recent problem. His piston blew apart and all the pieces went into the crank, good times. But where can I get all these special tools? And a list would be helpful

[devildog_0431]

don't be like me and end up w/ 20 extra bolts and have no clue where they go...and oddly all my bolts are in place but always end up w/ extras 

[Alkire193]

Yea that used to happen when I worked with leggos when I was younger, as a child they were preparing me for this build 

[devildog_0431]

if i didn't have a lego that would fit, i would cut up the bigger ones to make them fit as smaller 

[Alkire193]

Thinking outside the box, very nice 

[mustangracer42]

A trick I use when taking so many "layers" of an engine apart for the first time is.. Take a piece of cardboard and a sharpie.  Mark holes on the cardboard in the outline of the piece you are taking apart.  Then take an awl and poke holes where you made the sharpie marks.  As you take a bolt out, push it into the hole you made on the template and then just set the whole thing off to the side when you are done and make another one for the next piece.  It really helps you remember which bolts go where when you have several bolts of various lengths or maybe some bolts have sealing washers and some don't.  It's pretty foolproof.

Another tip I'll offer is when you start pulling parts off that you can't use a template for, I stack them in the exact order that I take them off with the first piece on the bottom of the stack and then add the other pieces on.  I 'll use the clutch basket as an example.  It has the outer plate, all the fibers and steels, and the nut that holds the hub onto the trans shaft, and under that is a little washer that keeps the gear on.  Put them in a stack in the exact order you took them off in and set the whole stack aside.  It will pay dividends when you are trying to figure out where shims or washers go.

[Warren]

couple more questions about pulling the engine. after reading my book it makes it sound like i need to pulll the swingarm pivot bolt out, but after looking it over it just looks like it sits on it. so do i need to drop the swingarm to get my engine out?

and also it says to remove the oil tank. do i need to do this too or is that just something to make engine removal easier?

[Krandall]

The swinger bolt is the rear motor mount. You need to pull it out. I don't remember w/ the oil tank.

[devildog_0431]

If you take the engine out w/ the top end installed, it will be tricky to get it out.  I've removed and installed mine over 5 times lol.  It's easier w/ the oil tank out, you are already removing the oil line from the motor and it's only 2 more bolts holding the tank on and the 1 small oil line going into the front of the cylinder.  If you keep the top end on, just remove the throttle body for more clearance, i recommend removing the top end anyway first since you are splitting cases later, this way you can just pick the motor up out of the frame w/out any overhead clearance issues and it's lighter.

Top motor mount (remove the bolt in the head, then remove the bracket from the frame, be sure to use only a 12mm 6point socket on these cuz they are tight and you don't want to round off the bolt head), rear swingarm bolt (be sure the 2 metal bushings don't become lost on the rear motor mount ear....they fall out with little effort, rear motor mount, chain, oil delivery line (don't lose the small black o-ring and sleeve, and seperate the 8mm bolt from the other case cover bolts...it is a special length for the line, coolant lines, reverse cable, throttle body, fuel line, clutch cable, bottom front left and right motor mounts.  You can use a krowbar or large screwdriver between the case and frame to pry the motor a bit loose and upward to get the bottom case ears out of the mount bracket.

[Warren]

what about all the seals inside the engine. the book says to replace every single one. would it be ok to just inspect them and if they are bad replace them or just get all new ones.

[devildog_0431]

how many hours do you have on your engine ?  it would be better to replace the seals because when you take them out, you disturb their surface and the seal they already have and you introduce outside contamination of dust/debri that can cause a bad seal when put back together.  You could save yourself some time/hassle later down the road if you go through it the right way now.  I didn't install my crank, I had a Yamaha Dealer do it, they shaved the clutch basket down smooth for me, changed all the seals and gaskets, new gears, synchronizers, forks, and bearings so I shouldn't have any issues for a long time.  When it comes to building motors, your motor is only as strong as it's weakest link.  And what you get out of it depends on what you put into it

[Warren]

what did it cost you to have the dealer rebuild your bottom end?


also what is the highest compression i can run with 93 octane fuel? i know that the +5 crank add .75 to my compression so should i just stay with my plan of getting a 10.5:1 piston or would 11:1 be ok? i don't want to have to worry about needing race fuel or octane boost. so what do you guys think about this matter? 10.5:1 or 11:1?

[Krandall]

I think your best bet is to play it safe sticking with the 10.5:1 the breaking point is right between the 11:1 and 12:5:1

[dabigbratj]

get the 10:5:1 

[devildog_0431]

It was originally going to be $240 to tear down and swap cranks (motor already out of the bike of course, in the bike would by more), i supplied my own case and water pump gaskets and oil filter.  As far as the rest of the seals, shaving the clutch basket, seals, bearings, etc...it was a grand total of $1231 for all new bottom end internals plus what I paid for my crank.