I just can't leave it alone

[rutcutter]

It's out and cases split, crank out.  Wasn't as bad as I thought it would be. Found three must haves so far:
#1 Service manual (free off this site)
#2 Flywheel puller  ($58 from dealer)
#3 Bearing puller set for pushing out crank ($39 from Harbor freight)

[rutcutter]

Well it's back together and back in the quad.  Guys this project is not that hard, just follow the manual to the letter, and pay attention when your tearing down.

Now I just need those top secret parts to finish up.

Kenny if you read this, watch your mail, the stuff should be there by Tuesday.

Fastraptor I had no extra parts

[NaturalRaptor]

That is awesome!        Are you going to the dyno again when it is finished?   

[rutcutter]

I am going to see how it runs. I can tweak fuel a little myself. I will end up dynoing after KBR slows down a little. They are swamped. Or maybe a trip down south to RE with a side trip to Glamis.

[Kenny]

The parts are done

[rutcutter]

Awesome, maybe I will get to ride this weekend after all.

Hope your kids like what I sent them, or you, if you want to keep them for yourself

[NaturalRaptor]

I am going to see how it runs. I can tweak fuel a little myself. I will end up dynoing after KBR slows down a little. They are swamped. Or maybe a trip down south to RE with a side trip to Glamis.

It has been good watching the status of your build, but sorry for the bad luck. Hope it is a real screamer!  It would be cool to see the difference the stroker crank made. RE has my motor right now :grin_nod: :grin_nod: :grin_nod:  but there are no dyno near where I live so I don't have that option.

[rutcutter]

If RE is doing it, it will be a runner!!!  There was nothing wrong with my build. The problems I had were caused by me.  I chalk it all up to learning, expensive learning

What are you having done to your motor?  To bad you don't have a good tuner near you, tweaking the ign and A/F can get you a lot of power.

Good luck with your build and keep us posted.

[NaturalRaptor]

Here is the list,
1: Racers Edge CNC Port and Polish
2: 105mm CP piston (not sure of the compression yet but I want to run pump gas)
3: Megacycle X-4 Cam
4: Plus 1 Valves  +1
5: Kibble White Springs
6. TB bore


While the motor is off I am have a friend who is bad ass tigger add the bung whole to the exhaust. I just upgraded to the PC5 and autotune kit. I figured it would be beneficial for me since there is not a dyno close.
Also, I talked with John and he said the # 2 setting on the programmable dynatek is actually very good.

[jonesi700r]

i would just talk to dl700 and get a custom ignition curve

[Kenny]

Here is the list,
1: Racers Edge CNC Port and Polish
2: 105mm CP piston (not sure of the compression yet but I want to run pump gas)
3: Megacycle X-4 Cam
4: Plus 1 Valves  +1
5: Kibble White Springs
6. TB bore


While the motor is off I am have a friend who is bad ass tigger add the bung whole to the exhaust. I just upgraded to the PC5 and autotune kit. I figured it would be beneficial for me since there is not a dyno close.
Also, I talked with John and he said the # 2 setting on the programmable dynatek is actually very good.

The #2 setting on the Dynatek is pretty good. It is also a safe place to be when you can't test on a loaded dyno. The curve that makes the biggest numbers on an unloaded dyno test is often inappropriate for real world riding. I am starting to see a few "sparkly" spark plugs lately that will certainly end in catastrophic failure if not corrected.

John and Bret at Racers Edge AZ are masters of understatement, and top of the game...... If they tell you something is "pretty good", run it :grin_nod:

[NaturalRaptor]

Here is the list,
1: Racers Edge CNC Port and Polish
2: 105mm CP piston (not sure of the compression yet but I want to run pump gas)
3: Megacycle X-4 Cam
4: Plus 1 Valves  +1
5: Kibble White Springs
6. TB bore


While the motor is off I am have a friend who is bad ass tigger add the bung whole to the exhaust. I just upgraded to the PC5 and autotune kit. I figured it would be beneficial for me since there is not a dyno close.
Also, I talked with John and he said the # 2 setting on the programmable dynatek is actually very good.

The #2 setting on the Dynatek is pretty good. It is also a safe place to be when you can't test on a loaded dyno. The curve that makes the biggest numbers on an unloaded dyno test is often inappropriate for real world riding. I am starting to see a few "sparkly" spark plugs lately that will certainly end in catastrophic failure if not corrected.

John and Bret at Racers Edge AZ are masters of understatement, and top of the game...... If they tell you something is "pretty good", run it :grin_nod:

That is great to hear. Thanks for the input Kenny! Your advice has always been straight up and honest and from myself I do appreciate it.   

[DL700]

all depends on the build... if u DONT  want to make any power in the overrev then curve 2 is pretty good 

loaded vs unloaded..... when a run takes XX amount of seconds on a loaded dyno and take the same amount of  time on an inertia dyno(no eddy current) the load is the same... its simple math......


The guys at Racers Edge know what they are doing!!  but they also specalize in different types of builds..... most of them adding MORE timing then what i tend to use due to the added compression of the builds!

[Kenny]

While I appreciate some good ol' fashioned schoolin' on ignition curves. Racers Edge is doing this build in house and I would follow John's advice. Better safe than sorry, unless it's a full bore racer, then you are never safe

[rutcutter]

Left hook to the jaw    You guys be nice this is my thread