Is cam worth it on 5 mod, without a piston?

[r00st]

I currently have

Pro design (K&N)
PCIII with barker map
Barker duals
Dynatek Ignition
Evac valve

I plan to have the +2 TB bore very soon.

With these mods... is a cam still worth it? I am thinking yes, especially for the price. I really value my torque and my low end power though which is something to consider. I dont get to ride dunes much anymore so its a lot of trail where pulling the lower gear is always nice (lugging through it instead of that mandatory downshift).

I am pretty much thinking HCII or HCIII. I was for sure set of HCIII as everyone was saying no point in the 2 when you can get the 3.

Is this ^ Point still valid with the Stock piston? I dont plan on opening her up yet... Somewhere down the line (probably next year at this time) I would do a piston, but it would be pump gas so 11:1.

I would like to do the cam soon, as we are going to the dyno and want the cam in there before I dyno it (otherwise I wont add it...as I dont want a canned tune with a cam in).

Thoughts?

[Krandall]

YES.


It's TOTALLY worth it. For the power that you gain. You don't miss it on the low end I swear. That is a similar build that I have. (Just I'm bored to a 727)

But to take advantage of those barkers and dynatek you're best off getting a bigger cam for sure!

[TrxOutlawz]

I would say absolutely YES...  I have stock bore and piston.
I run....
Barker Duals,
Dynatek Fuel Controller,
Dynatek Ignition,
+2 TB,
Hotcam III,
GYTR intake,

The intake is what I will be changing.  I went with it because my other bike has one and I wanted the ease of cleaning and swapping out.   After the Dyno,  it is going to be changed to a better flowing intake system after Kam (KBR) gets done with their R&D. 
As long as you are running the ignition, I would add the cam.   

[r00st]

Ok stage III here I come!

What kind of torque do you think I can make with this combo? I would sacrifice a few HP for a few Ft/Lbs any day!

It would be nice to be at like 55-60 with 50+ ft/lbs if thats possible (on the torque anyway).

[air]

TrxOutlawz Machine runs great.

I am having to put in a stroker crank in mine to go faster than him.

Well that and the fact my stock crank is toast.

[TrxOutlawz]

Ok stage III here I come!
What kind of torque do you think I can make with this combo? I would sacrifice a few HP for a few Ft/Lbs any day!
It would be nice to be at like 55-60 with 50+ ft/lbs if thats possible (on the torque anyway).

I ended up with 58 HP and 45 TQ on KBR's Dyno.  That is where mine is with the GYTR intake ( that will be replaced).  Stock piston.  I understand you can up the TQ by using a higher compression piston in the stock bore if you dont want to spend the money for cylinder work.  Good luck to you on your decisions..

[r00st]

Thanks for the input.

Ya I too was thinking about switching to the FCI with box when it comes out, but 300 is kinda spendy for an intake (when I already have one..).

If they can show me dyno's compared to trinity/proflow intakes and the gain is good I will switch before the dyno.

58/45 is a monster for bolt ons! My old DS was 70/60 give or take but it was also 500+ lbs... So with these mods I should be just as fast with the bike weighing over 100 pounds less.

I know you can get torque/power with the Hi comp but I just dont want to go that route (not that available in northern illinois...and I just HATE the idea of it!) I would be plenty happy with 55-60 hp and hopefully closer to 50 ft/lbs.  I guess I can always dyno the way I am (well with the cam) and if im not happy with it I can do piston/ and new intake next year which should add good power. After all...If I do everything now, what fun is not adding mods? I dont want to go big bore for awhile either, so this should satisfy me (for a few days )

[rutcutter]

Guys, on a stage III do you have to change out the valve springs?  I think I read somewhere you do.

From what I've read here is that Roost wants to put a cam in without pulling his head at this time. I assume you can't install the springs without pulling the head.

[Krandall]

With a stage 2 spring upgrades are not "required" but recommended. For the Stage 3 it is recommended that you upgrade springs as they aren't stif enough to allow the valves to close fully before hitting the upstroke again.

[preddy08]

With a stage 2 spring upgrades are not "required" but recommended. For the Stage 3 it is recommended that you upgrade springs as they aren't stif enough to allow the valves to close fully before hitting the upstroke again.

As a blanket statement thats true, but not exactly.

Is it required, no, is it recommeded yes.

[Colorado700R]

the FAQs on the hotcams site states that it's not required, but will be if you add an ignition controller (Dynatek). 



I will be adding new springs to mine.  Overkill maybe, but I'd rather play it safe.

Aaron

[Krandall]

+1. I had new springs installed on mine w the HC Stage 2. Safety's sake.

I don't want my valves floatin here.

[RaptorRandy]

Good call guys....I feel it's always a good practice to install a good set of springs when upgrading the camshaft to insure you get maximum potential of a given combination, even if it's not a requirment. Just sound judgement that will pay off in the long run IMHO 

[rutcutter]

Ok, so it's agreed the springs should be changed.  Can the springs be changed without pulling the head?

I have heard of people pressurizing the cylinder to hold the valve in place while changing the springs, what do you guys think?

Trying to help Roost out and myself. I am not quite ready for a piston so I don't want to pull my head yet.

[preddy08]

Ok, so it's agreeded the springs should be changed.  Can the springs be changed without pulling the head?

I have heard of people pressurizing the cylinder to hold the valve in place while changing the springs, what do you guys think?

Trying to help Roost out and myself. I am not quite ready for a piston so I don't want to pull my head yet.

I know it can be done on a predator, but never had the need to do it on a raptor.