I will Put it together myself

[digitalhearing]

Tony, Thanks for the explanation BUT I have got to say, I have heard on a new cam do NOT let it idol, the RPM should be varied and not keep it at the same engine speed.  Of course Idoling is just that, the same engine speed.  Does that contradict what you said?  It's something that I remember hearing more than once.....keep it moving up and down the RPM range, I think so the cam doesn't get a flat spot.

Grant

[Peelz]

all I have heard is to heat cycle gingerly twice, nothing about leave idleing during that time. However... it makes sense. But...it also makes sense to fluctuate RPM a little bit during the heating. I dunno, never replaced a quad's cam. I always keep the head gasket procedure in my head. Heat cycle once, changing rpm, retorque head, repeat once, Rock out!

[digitalhearing]

Right on Brotha'  I will fluctuate (ride it in a mild way), let it cool down and then slowly work in to the power.  I have had great luck with my new builds with no problems either   

Grant

[1FST690]

ride it like a hooker on nickle night!! Right after a couple of heat cycles.

[digitalhearing]

ride it like a hooker on nickle night!! Right after a couple of heat cycles.

I've got a pocket full of nickles, I'm ready to ride !!!

Grant

[tonyrt44]

Tony, Thanks for the explanation BUT I have got to say, I have heard on a new cam do NOT let it idol, the RPM should be varied and not keep it at the same engine speed.  Of course Idoling is just that, the same engine speed.  Does that contradict what you said?  It's something that I remember hearing more than once.....keep it moving up and down the RPM range, I think so the cam doesn't get a flat spot.

Grant

Varying the RPM is not required for the Raptors, since it roller/rocker type lifting mechanisim.
Coating the cam lobes with anti-sieze Moly grease (or dark CV joint grease) during instaltion is highly recommended.
roller/rocker lifters take very little time to break-in the camshaft.

What you said and "quoted above" applies to bucket type valve lifters, like the YFZ's for example.

[tonyrt44]

Right on Brotha'  I will fluctuate (ride it in a mild way), let it cool down and then slowly work in to the power.  I have had great luck with my new builds with no problems either   

Grant

Grant
Bear in mind that those new rings sealing surfaces are relativly rough, thier friction with cylinder wall will generate exissive amount of heat. varying the rpm will increase the load and heat on these surfaces and will not lead to proper seal.
Take this example, when restoring/polishing your bad car paint.
first you would remove the pale paint surface (this is equal to heat cycling)
second you buff to shine ( WOT riding)

you will not have any major issues if you did it your way, maybe loose 1-3 horses off your engine.

[digitalhearing]

1-3 horses off of my engine,,YIKES.  I guess I better go back up and re-read your posts, I work damn hard for 1-3 horsepower, and to throw it out the window would not be wise.

Grant

[Peelz]

Right on Brotha'  I will fluctuate (ride it in a mild way), let it cool down and then slowly work in to the power.  I have had great luck with my new builds with no problems either   

Grant

Grant
Bear in mind that those new rings sealing surfaces are relativly rough, thier friction with cylinder wall will generate exissive amount of heat. varying the rpm will increase the load and heat on these surfaces and will not lead to proper seal.
Take this example, when restoring/polishing your bad car paint.
first you would remove the pale paint surface (this is equal to heat cycling)
second you buff to shine ( WOT riding)

you will not have any major issues if you did it your way, maybe loose 1-3 horses off your engine.

body work, excellent analogy. great explanation.

[Krandall]

Impropper break-in can affect in a range of 1-3 hp



damn.