Story one: but a rough 2006 raptor 700. sent it to east coast customs and they said that they put a Trinity racing 734cc kit, JE 10.1 piston, hot cam stage one, ct racing header back exhaust, trinity racing air filter kit and computer. Long story short. Half the stuff was never put on i found out last week.
Part two. A year later, maybe 7 rides later. Timing chain was loud. Took it to cycle gear pro. He said the timing chain and sprocket and tensioner had to replace. I ask him about the cam. He said it was stock. So I had him put in a HC stage 3.
I rode 3 minutes and it stopped running. Brought I back and this is the email i got from him.
Hi Jay,
Ok, here's what we got. It has the 105.5 bore kit with the 9:2:1 compression piston. The crank is stock with a stock stroke. The head is also bone stock with stock porting and stock valves.
Ok, now for some more bad news. The crank is shot and so are the crank bearings. The cylinder is egg shaped and the piston is worn. When the crank let loose, the extra play in the connecting rod caused the piston to come up and hit the valves. You are looking at a complete bottom to top rebuild. Estimated price is $1900 to $2200 depending if we find anything else broken inside the motor.
Thanks let me know what you want to do next.
John Aquino
Cycle Pro Racing,Inc.
908-850-1955
Fax 908-537-4890
www.cycleproracing.com
It sounds like me the timing was off, piston hit valve. and there we go.
So I'm going to rebuilt myself. Never rebuilt a quad before but i do have their service manual. Since I have to replace the crank, I was thinking hotrod 5+ crank with 11:5 piston. Send the head out to get a mild port with better valves. And better ideas to help me out. Does this built sound good?
Other mods that i have: Dynatek & Protech lid, all new razr 2 tires, 2" wicked arms, rear wheel spacers, GT THUNDER shocks front and steering stabilizer / damper. Prolly some other stuff.
So can you guy suggest a place to buy parts and a built list and any other feed for me.
Who makes a 105.5 Stock Compression piston ???
Quote from: Sand84 on July 21, 2010, 11:33:06 PM
Who makes a 105.5 Stock Compression piston ???
is the 105.5 = to 734cc? right?
Yes 105.5=734
I would get a 5 mill hot rods crank for sure. Are you positive the mechanic you took it to knows for sure all that is wrong with it? I would take the head and cylinder off and see if its any good and check the play in the crank before i ordered anything. I do know from my previous build if you run the 105.5 bore and 5 mill stroker crank you have to have head studs and i would put cylinder studs also. I didnt do the cylinder studs and mine leaks a little oil under the jug. Did he replace the springs in the head when he put a stage 3 cam in? Stage 2 hot cam is as big as you can go without changing the valve springs.
Sucks to hear about your experiences, hope you can get it all worked out....worst case you can check out some shops like Racer's Edge AZ or Joker's Vault, they both have great customer reviews.
As for the cam, you CAN run stock springs on a Hotcam 2/3 in a Raptor 700, it's only when you have the ignition curve tuned aggressively that you may need HD springs for the Hotcam 3.
Hey man, sorry to hear all your troubles thus far :( stuff like that sucks.
Where are you located?
for the price of 1900-2200 you can get a complete 700 motor (running).
but that'd bring you back to square one.
depending on where you want to go w/ the power. There's quite a few options. A HR Crank is just under $300. There are plenty of stock cranks floating around also if you're tryin to keep the cost down.
if the cylinder is egg shaped. I'm not sure really what your options are. I don' tknow how much more you can go. For that. I'd maybe talk to Bo White (VelociRaptor) and see if its possible to hog that out a bit more and then drop a steel sleeve in there.. If not. I think you're stuck w/ a bad cylinder. From what I remember. I think 105.5 is the most you can take out of the stock cylinders. But Bo would know for sure.
The head. Depending on what you want again... Quite a few options. Bo White (VelociRaptor) again would be a good contact. He does hand porting, very reasonably priced, and he's AMAZING to work with! Since you're at the point of the entire thing coming apart. I'd look into ditching that HC3. Colorado700r on here is looking at selling his cam. Its a beast!! :)
Let us know if you have any other questions. Good luck man!
Few more questions, remember, I'm on a budget:
Some people say that the trinity fuel computer will make this engine hard to tune, that I will be maxing out that programmer Any truth to that?
Other people say that stay at 734 but don't add the 5+ stroker. I will not get that much more power out of it. I can't understand why now. More motor, more torque. Right?
Another question is valves for head. I was think about +2 valves and a mild port. But they said with only the hc3 it won't do much. Stay stock.
Just looking for advice before I start ordering parts.
lets start from scratch. What all is damaged, and what kindof budget are we working with.
the crank is loose. you can grab it and move it by hand. so bad crank bearings.
the cylinder is scored front to back, not left to right.
piston hit two of the valves. the smaller ones.
budget $1000 thats shipped.
looking at +5 crank,11:1 piston, redo cylinder. its already at 105.5. bascially most of the inside is shot. not sure to do with the head? see the othe rpost that is full of questions
Have you torn any of it apart yet to see the damage?
Crank - $250
piston $150
Cylinder - 200-300
Port job. (hand port you're looking @ $500 w/ + 1 valves)
cam another 150 if you're stuck on the hot cam.
The HR crank is about 285 + shipping
its normal for the crank to have a little side play.
and Bo's hand porting if I remember right only cost 250.
Quote from: preddy08 on July 27, 2010, 07:57:46 AM
its normal for the crank to have a little side play.
and Bo's hand porting if I remember right only cost 250.
250 for track II if I remember right, there's also the T-Rex which is also hand ported and about 500.
He mentioned oversized valves which is why I said the $500.
are aftermarket bearings better than stock bearing?
So which forum do you want this answer on? ???
try these, guarantee half these guys use them....you know why...
(http://www.chinesemol.com/member/upload/product/2834310/20076102273699583.jpg)
disclaimer: I am totally kidding. I found one of these in my dad's old mower parts box. :lol:
Quote from: Spartan727 on July 28, 2010, 10:29:41 AM
So which forum do you want this answer on? ???
any. i post on many forums to get a feel of different opinions. not every body goes on all the forums. i still dont feel like i have gotten an answer that i 100% comfortable with. everybody is giving me different answers
Well when you ask on different forums you'll get different answers. I don't feel like repeating the same answer on all of them...But yes aftermarket bearings are better than stock usually. I run Pivotworks bearings for main bearings now I think.
Quote from: Spartan727 on July 28, 2010, 05:24:23 PM
Well when you ask on different forums you'll get different answers. I don't feel like repeating the same answer on all of them...But yes aftermarket bearings are better than stock usually. I run Pivotworks bearings for main bearings now I think.
thank you for your answer. is there a better place to buy them or are the prices about the same everywhere?
You can order them from RMATV or TQS...I believe I got mine from TQS :thumbs:
talking the main crank bearings?
yes, i putting a hodrod crank in +5
Quote from: rightaway on July 29, 2010, 06:41:28 PM
yes, i putting a hodrod crank in +5
You are automatically cooler (and have bigger nuts than) Krandall :thumbs: :rofl:
hamsters have bigger nuts than krandall
MD told me so
When you get the crank it should come with the bearing on the cam sprocket side so you should just have to get one for the other side. Is your cylinder a Trinity Racing cylinder or did they just bore it to a 105.5?
Quote from: anthony81 on July 30, 2010, 06:24:33 AM
When you get the crank it should come with the bearing on the cam sprocket side so you should just have to get one for the other side. Is your cylinder a Trinity Racing cylinder or did they just bore it to a 105.5?
i'm not sure. they lied about everybody thing else. i just think the bored it out. what is the difference?
If it is a Trinity built cylinder it is a little thicker on the jug skirt and it will have trinity racing cast in the side. I was just curious because they told me if i bored mine 105.5 is the largest i could bore it to and even then might crack on the skirt of the jug. Is the jug pretty bad?