My son and I tore his motor down 2 weeks ago and finally got all the parts together to rebuild it. My mechanic that comes over and helps isn't able to come this weekend so I am going to attempt to put it all together and get it running....here is what the new parts are:
New HotCam 3
New CP 11:1 piston
New Kenz ported head and +2 valves
Kenny +3 Throttle Body
I have watched but never installed the cam before, I am concerned with the decompression pin on the cam and setting the valves. Other that I have installed a piston cylinder and head, they are pretty straight forward.
Any advice on installing the cam and decompression pin would be appreciated-or anything else that might be helpful.
Grant
Check out the service manual.... it's a little small, but it will show you how it goes in
Quote from: Pw383426 on August 08, 2008, 10:38:31 AM
Check out the service manual.... it's a little small, but it will show you how it goes in
I will look at the manual, and see. One thing that concerns me, before I took it apart I didn't get the piston to TDC and all 4 valves seem to be open, how can I spin the cam after the head is already off of the bike to relax the valves and springs?
Grant
Wow, I don't know about the TDC part... I could help you with the cam stuff once someone that has more knowledge says what to do about the TDC. If that doesn't all get straightened out, you more than likely will end up out of time.. Now I could be totally wrong but that's just what I'm thinking off the top of the dome. ???
Quote from: digitalhearing on August 08, 2008, 11:34:48 AM
Quote from: Pw383426 on August 08, 2008, 10:38:31 AM
Check out the service manual.... it's a little small, but it will show you how it goes in
I will look at the manual, and see. One thing that concerns me, before I took it apart I didn't get the piston to TDC and all 4 valves seem to be open, how can I spin the cam after the head is already off of the bike to relax the valves and springs?
Grant
That does'nt really matter, as long as when it goes back togeather properly at TDC.
Yea, Preddy, you have it right, as long as the marks are all ligned up and the piston is TDC on the compression stroke it should be fine but how do you spin the cam with tention on it when it's off the bike?
Grant
Quote from: digitalhearing on August 08, 2008, 01:05:41 PM
Yea, Preddy, you have it right, as long as the marks are all ligned up and the piston is TDC on the compression stroke it should be fine but how do you spin the cam with tention on it when it's off the bike?
Grant
You don't...lol
Grant-It is easy, you can do it no problem. I think it is easier to cam in once the rest of the motor is all assembled. All you have to do is have it at TDC and then reinstall the cam so that it all lines up. One thing OK two things is make sure the decompression pin is in correctly and also make sure you take the ENTIRE timing chain tensioner out so that you get the gear back on and also reset it correctly. Valves are a piece of cake as long as you follow the instructions. Do those last. There is a good write up on the old site that is very helpful.
Thanks for the direction Yellowis.. I just got an Idea, I can loosen the valve adjusters on the rockers to take pressure off of the cam so I can rotate it and remove the cam to put the larger cam in. As it sits now, all the valves are opened up and the cam has pressure on it and it won't spin. I'll search "that" site for cam install and see if I can find the step by step.
Grant
I dont know if there is a cam install guide, but a guide on adjusting your valves. I think there is a cam install guide somewhere that I read, I will see if I can find it and send it.
Edit: Just emailed the link to you at the address in your profile.
Well guys, I got the boys bike complete. I spend a hell of a bunch of hours on it starting Friday night and got it finished on Sunday just after noon. I had a little help from him but I pretty much did it myslef.. I spent a lot of time gapping the rings. also taking the rockers out was challenging and getting them in correctly. when we turned it over it started right away without hesitation and ran smoothly. Thanks for the advice from lots of guys that answered questions I had along the way. Now I can't wait to do it again. I think my wife is gonna want a big bore kit on 700 sometime next month :lol:
Grant
Your are not done yet.
Proper break-in is a major part of engine rebuild.
One thing in mind, do not be a sissy. give it hell when riding for the first 15 minutes. after properly heat cycling.
Quote from: tonyrt44 on August 13, 2008, 02:00:25 PM
Your are not done yet.
Proper break-in is a major part of engine rebuild.
One thing in mind, do not be a sissy. give it hell when riding for the first 15 minutes. after properly heat cycling.
Yea, good advice, heat cycling it should consist of warming it up for 5 minutes while riding it, then let it cool down and repeat 2 times? Then retorque head bolts and adjust valves after the first full day riding?
Grant
Quote from: digitalhearing on August 13, 2008, 02:10:12 PM
Quote from: tonyrt44 on August 13, 2008, 02:00:25 PM
Your are not done yet.
Proper break-in is a major part of engine rebuild.
One thing in mind, do not be a sissy. give it hell when riding for the first 15 minutes. after properly heat cycling.
Yea, good advice, heat cycling it should consist of warming it up for 5 minutes while riding it, then let it cool down and repeat 2 times? Then retorque head bolts and adjust valves after the first full day riding?
Grant
Some say to check the headbolt torque and valve clearence after the heat cycle, but I have NEVER had one move in that 20 minutes of heat cycles. I think that is just a way for you to double check that everything was done right the first time.
Quote from: digitalhearing on August 13, 2008, 02:10:12 PM
Quote from: tonyrt44 on August 13, 2008, 02:00:25 PM
Your are not done yet.
Proper break-in is a major part of engine rebuild.
One thing in mind, do not be a sissy. give it hell when riding for the first 15 minutes. after properly heat cycling.
Yea, good advice, heat cycling it should consist of warming it up for 5 minutes while riding it, then let it cool down and repeat 2 times? Then retorque head bolts and adjust valves after the first full day riding?
Grant
NO sir.
Heat cycling is to let it IDLE untill the cylinder is warm to the touch. this happens in less than 3 minutes.
let cool down completly before the second heat cycle.
after it completly cooled down form the second heat cycle. No more heat cycles.
Ride time: Warm up the engine till it reaches about 100 degrees. once warmed, give it hell. do not jerk the engine off the start. roll off easy and then WOT till fifth gear.
try loading the engine on decellaration as well, it will help the rings to flex, giving you the optimum seal.
Retorque the head bolts after completing couple of fuel tanks.
Tony, Thanks for the explanation BUT I have got to say, I have heard on a new cam do NOT let it idol, the RPM should be varied and not keep it at the same engine speed. Of course Idoling is just that, the same engine speed. Does that contradict what you said? It's something that I remember hearing more than once.....keep it moving up and down the RPM range, I think so the cam doesn't get a flat spot.
Grant
all I have heard is to heat cycle gingerly twice, nothing about leave idleing during that time. However... it makes sense. But...it also makes sense to fluctuate RPM a little bit during the heating. I dunno, never replaced a quad's cam. I always keep the head gasket procedure in my head. Heat cycle once, changing rpm, retorque head, repeat once, Rock out!
Right on Brotha' I will fluctuate (ride it in a mild way), let it cool down and then slowly work in to the power. I have had great luck with my new builds with no problems either :thumbs:
Grant
ride it like a hooker on nickle night!! Right after a couple of heat cycles.
Quote from: 1FST690 on August 13, 2008, 09:30:14 PM
ride it like a hooker on nickle night!! Right after a couple of heat cycles.
I've got a pocket full of nickles, I'm ready to ride !!!
Grant
Quote from: digitalhearing on August 13, 2008, 04:35:06 PM
Tony, Thanks for the explanation BUT I have got to say, I have heard on a new cam do NOT let it idol, the RPM should be varied and not keep it at the same engine speed. Of course Idoling is just that, the same engine speed. Does that contradict what you said? It's something that I remember hearing more than once.....keep it moving up and down the RPM range, I think so the cam doesn't get a flat spot.
Grant
Varying the RPM is not required for the Raptors, since it roller/rocker type lifting mechanisim.
Coating the cam lobes with anti-sieze Moly grease (or dark CV joint grease) during instaltion is highly recommended.
roller/rocker lifters take very little time to break-in the camshaft.
What you said and "quoted above" applies to bucket type valve lifters, like the YFZ's for example.
Quote from: digitalhearing on August 13, 2008, 08:09:07 PM
Right on Brotha' I will fluctuate (ride it in a mild way), let it cool down and then slowly work in to the power. I have had great luck with my new builds with no problems either :thumbs:
Grant
Grant
Bear in mind that those new rings sealing surfaces are relativly rough, thier friction with cylinder wall will generate exissive amount of heat. varying the rpm will increase the load and heat on these surfaces and will not lead to proper seal.
Take this example, when restoring/polishing your bad car paint.
first you would remove the pale paint surface (this is equal to heat cycling)
second you buff to shine ( WOT riding)
you will not have any major issues if you did it your way, maybe loose 1-3 horses off your engine.
1-3 horses off of my engine,,YIKES. I guess I better go back up and re-read your posts, I work damn hard for 1-3 horsepower, and to throw it out the window would not be wise.
Grant
Quote from: tonyrt44 on August 14, 2008, 12:03:40 AM
Quote from: digitalhearing on August 13, 2008, 08:09:07 PM
Right on Brotha' I will fluctuate (ride it in a mild way), let it cool down and then slowly work in to the power. I have had great luck with my new builds with no problems either :thumbs:
Grant
Grant
Bear in mind that those new rings sealing surfaces are relativly rough, thier friction with cylinder wall will generate exissive amount of heat. varying the rpm will increase the load and heat on these surfaces and will not lead to proper seal.
Take this example, when restoring/polishing your bad car paint.
first you would remove the pale paint surface (this is equal to heat cycling)
second you buff to shine ( WOT riding)
you will not have any major issues if you did it your way, maybe loose 1-3 horses off your engine.
body work, excellent analogy. :thumbs: great explanation.
Impropper break-in can affect in a range of 1-3 hp :jaw:
damn. :thud: