Wont idle after putting it all back together... Tune problem or possibly dynatek

[r00st]

So I put my build back together and went to put a couple hours on it today.

I added:
CNC +1 head
RJ cam
+3 TB
Diamond 11:1
Had DL700 reprogram my dynatek

I loaded the Tune I got from DL700 that he said ran quite well for his RJ cam build (which is almost identical to mine so figure it has to be pretty damn close).

So it fires up pretty easily but once you touch the throttle it acts like the map is way off and it will go into a WAY elevated high idle and just sustain that until it seems like it burns off the extra fuel and slowly goes back down to a more normal idle. Sometimes it goes for almost 30 seconds or I will just shut it down since I was tying to wait to actually ride it to keep a load on the motor.

I tried messing with the idle screw and its all over the place (get to a spot where it revs up really high and if I back it out even 1/8 turn it drops back down and shuts off).

So... having this problem I cannot set the TPS which I know needs to be done again.

Does this sound like a tune problem or possibly a dynatek problem? I would think either the dynatek works or it does'nt, but from a few threads I have read some people had idling problems with the dynatek?

The map seems pretty good from about 3k rpm and up... I got about an hours ride time on it today. I am going to try and get another few hours on it and then decide if I need to scrounge up the cash for a dyno tune or more likely, the PC5 with autotune.

Any help is greatly appreciated!
-Mike

[Kenny]

This should be a real easy fix. Turn the thumbscrew for cold idle all the way in till it bottoms, then back out 5-1/8 turns to get back to baseline. You will see a 1/2" hose coming from the cold idle housing that goes to the intake tube. Once the engine is warmed up good, disconnect the hose and put your thumb over it, if the idle changes spray penetrating oil in the hose until the idle drops off. Shut the engine off as soon as the idle drops and let it sit overnight. It should be greatly improved the next morning. Give me a call if you need any troubleshooting help

[r00st]

Thanks Kenny I will try that. Which end of the hose I am disconnecting, the one from the cold idle? (leaving the other end on the intake tube?).

So if the idle DOES change when I do this what does this mean? I am not sure what the inside of the cold idle area looks like so not sure if something could be stuck open?

One thing...as far as the adjuster on the throttle cable by the throttle body...should I just set this so the TB is as seated ("closed") as it gets?

I was thinking the idle screw was not changing anything (went both directions with it quite a number of turns) so I started adjusting the actual adjuster on the throttle cable thinking it was sticking open. Is there a good way to adjust this cable without tearing everything down so i can see inside the TB? (how about taking the 3 screw cover off to see the barrel nut/cable, should I take the barrel nut out and adjust it so its fully closed when no throttle is applied?)

Sorry im probably not making any sense... im exhausted over this build and just want to RUN The damn thing! lol

Thanks!
Mike

[tonyrt44]

I had the exact symptoms.
except my setup was all different from yours.

I was running the Dynojet ignition module on my 869cc Raptor.
I have the 54mm throttle body and TPS was set correctly.
playing with the idle screw did not help much at all

I found out that disconnecting the ignition module, and returning it to stock ignition solved this problem.

so this could be your fix, as this dyna ignition might be acting up

[Kenny]

Thanks Kenny I will try that. Which end of the hose I am disconnecting, the one from the cold idle? (leaving the other end on the intake tube?).

So if the idle DOES change when I do this what does this mean? I am not sure what the inside of the cold idle area looks like so not sure if something could be stuck open?

One thing...as far as the adjuster on the throttle cable by the throttle body...should I just set this so the TB is as seated ("closed") as it gets?

I was thinking the idle screw was not changing anything (went both directions with it quite a number of turns) so I started adjusting the actual adjuster on the throttle cable thinking it was sticking open. Is there a good way to adjust this cable without tearing everything down so i can see inside the TB? (how about taking the 3 screw cover off to see the barrel nut/cable, should I take the barrel nut out and adjust it so its fully closed when no throttle is applied?)

Sorry im probably not making any sense... im exhausted over this build and just want to RUN The damn thing! lol

Thanks!
Mike

The barrel nut is for hot and baseline idle. Once the idle issues are worked out, this will be used to set hot idle. Adjust the cable until it has no tension at 0 throttle. The throttle cable should be loose. You will unhook the hose at the intake tube since it allows easier access.

Tony has a good point about the ignition as well. The Dynatek ignitions seem to be becoming more problematic lately.

[Krandall]

Although others have responded.. It could be as simple as adjusting your newly bored throttle body, I know I ran into the same issues where my throttle cable was to tight and giving me a high idle.

[r00st]

Thanks for the ideas guys... I have a few things to try and check:

* Check the hose Kenny mentioned
* Unhook dynatek and see if thats the problem
* Check voltage of TPS
* Make sure throttle cable has a bit of slack and is not taught, causing the TB blade to be held open.

Hopefully one of these fixes it! I can understand a bit of a lopey/rough idle on a cold start but having it either completely die, or stay @ 3,500+ rpm at idle is ridiculous lol.