This winters build thoughts???? Any suggestions?

Started by gr8ride4u2luv, April 14, 2010, 10:04:46 PM

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gr8ride4u2luv

So am am budgeting and looking into a new winter build this year. With all the mods in my signature I hit 65hp with a Roosterbuilt tune. I cant complain with the little money I spent but want more!  :nod: I want very much a reliable machine but am always looking for more power. I was thinking of at least this....

105.5mm bore with minimum 12.5:1 compression piston. I dont mind running race gas or 50/50.
Velociraptor TrexII port and polish with +1mm valves.
New cam, I dont know what.
FCI Intake.


I dont want to split the case because I have never done it but I would really like to stroke it as well. What are your guys' thoughts on the reliability of a build of this nature??? I do not want to have to take this think apart every 6 months to replace parts. Also any new cam suggestions would be great!
Barker In-Frame Duals
CP 11:1
Corrected Deck Height Cylinder
Hot Cam Stage III
KW HD Springs
Track Port & Polish by BO
+3 Throttle Body
Pro Design Intake w/ K&N
PCIII
Dynatek Prog. Ignition W/ Custom Curves
KDS Evac Valve
15T Front Sprocket
GNCC 22x7x10 Fronts
GNCC 21x11x9 Rears
Skat Trak Edge 22x11x10 Rear Paddles
TM Designworks Case Saver
TM Designworks Magnetic Oil Drain Plug
P

Colorado700R

if there's no reason to go big bore why do it?  There's 80 HP stock bores out there.  And that lets you run your stock head gasket.  If you like drag racing. I say try a RE +2 head, 14-1 CP or JE and the FCI.  that alone should push you into the 70's

gr8ride4u2luv

 Well what am I missing them??? I'm 15hp short?
Barker In-Frame Duals
CP 11:1
Corrected Deck Height Cylinder
Hot Cam Stage III
KW HD Springs
Track Port & Polish by BO
+3 Throttle Body
Pro Design Intake w/ K&N
PCIII
Dynatek Prog. Ignition W/ Custom Curves
KDS Evac Valve
15T Front Sprocket
GNCC 22x7x10 Fronts
GNCC 21x11x9 Rears
Skat Trak Edge 22x11x10 Rear Paddles
TM Designworks Case Saver
TM Designworks Magnetic Oil Drain Plug
P

Krandall

#3
You gotta remember too.. Every Dyno is different. I'd find out what that 80hp machine aaron's refering to has in it. and then see if Rooster's dyno'd anything similar in build and see what it made for power.

I think some of the next cheaper logical steps would be. Getting rid of that HC3 and moving to something a bit bigger. one of the barker cams or if you can find a RJ. And then a bigger compression piston also will get you a bit more too .


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Colorado700R

Quote from: gr8ride4u2luv on April 14, 2010, 11:01:54 PM
Well what am I missing them??? I'm 15hp short?

bigger nastier head with oversized valves, high compression (14-1)  light weight piston, web 4 cam. 

Barker, Racer's Edge, KENZ, OMW, and I think Bo's Megalondon head, and others...all of them have what you need.  The head seems to be a HUGE factor.  The combonation of porting, valve size, and cam matched with high compression and a good flowing intake and exhaust builds stupid power in the raptor.  I prefer to keep stock bore till there is a need too upgrade (Cylinder wear), then I would pursue a bigbore setup.

Just my $.02

Aaron

VelociRaptor

#5
I think 65 is real good on that dyno based off of others thats been on that dyno. Stock valve port, only one way to go and thats up. HCIII, only one cam thats commonly used thats smaller so its almost the same situation. If your going to stay with a bored TB go with the +1 head and the 5050 cam or possibly the Web4. If your gonna get a billet TB or possibly sometime soon after go to the +2 head and the Web4 or custom. You will have over 70 with the +1 combination and 80 or so with the +2 combination.