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Raptor 700 Information => 700 General Discussion => Topic started by: digitalhearing on August 13, 2008, 04:39:05 PM
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I was at the dyno last week and my dyno tuner, David @ Roosterbuilt said that my bearings are sounding shot, and getting louder than when he first put the bike on the dyno. I just ordered and received a set of pivot works bearings. Anyone know how to get the old ones out and put the new ones in? Do i need a press or do they drive out with a punch and hammer? Any help is appreciated.
Grant
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I was at the dyno last week and my dyno tuner, David @ Roosterbuilt said that my bearings are sounding shot, and getting louder than when he first put the bike on the dyno. I just ordered and received a set of pivot works bearings. Anyone know how to get the old ones out and put the new ones in? Do i need a press or do they drive out with a punch and hammer? Any help is appreciated.
Grant
Are you talking about carrier bearings or swingarm pivot bearings?
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The Carrier bearings at the rear of the swingarm where the axle goes through. Wore out :'(
Grant
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The Carrier bearings at the rear of the swingarm where the axle goes through. Wore out :'(
Grant
I have never replaced the actual bearing inside the carrier. I dont really see the point when there are better, cheap options out there. I would replace the whole carier with a good aftermarket twin row carrier.
When I was young I hade a race ready 300ex and a shop tried to nick me for 500 bucks for a new carrier. If you lifted the rear of the quad off the ground it had 1/2" of slop in the carrier :jaw:
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I dont remember where but Richw3533 had post some info on this subject before. Also, like Preddy stated the aftermarket carriers are better since you are at that point.
On my old 660 the bearings seized up and took the carrier to the dealer to get the old bearings out. They just beat them out with a hammer and pressed the new ones in. Charged me about $50 bucks. Good luck! Let me know what you end up doing. :thumbs:
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Grant,
I havent done a 700 but you should be able to pull the seals out. Place the carrier on a block of wood vertically and using a long skinny punch, go from one side to the bearing on the other side. Pound it out, rotate carrier and repeat! Give me a shout if you have ant troubles :thumbs:
Frank
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Grant,
I just did mine about 2 months ago. Piece of cake. I used a large screw driver, hammer, vice, and a bearing installer kit. Didn't take long at all. Pryed the seals out, put carrier in vice (carefully with it wrapped in a towel to prevent any consmetic damage), used the large screwdriver and hammer to pound the bearings out from the top. They will come out with some persuasion. I then used some emory cloth to smooth out the inside of the carrier. Smear a little lithium grease inside the carrier and gently pounded the new ones in using a bearing installer kit. They went in without too much effort. Then I put the new seals in and you're all set.
PM or reply if you need any specific info.
HTH,
Dave
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How much are the new bearings by themselves?
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When I checked Yamaha OEM it was $150 for four bearings and two seals. Pivot works kit that includes four bearings and two seals are $53.
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Grant,
I just did mine about 2 months ago. Piece of cake. I used a large screw driver, hammer, vice, and a bearing installer kit. Didn't take long at all. Pryed the seals out, put carrier in vice (carefully with it wrapped in a towel to prevent any consmetic damage), used the large screwdriver and hammer to pound the bearings out from the top. They will come out with some persuasion. I then used some emory cloth to smooth out the inside of the carrier. Smear a little lithium grease inside the carrier and gently pounded the new ones in using a bearing installer kit. They went in without too much effort. Then I put the new seals in and you're all set.
PM or reply if you need any specific info.
HTH,
Dave
Thanks Dave and Frank, What is the bearing installer kit consist of? I will follow your steps and try it myself. To everyone else, thanks for the advice on the new carrier (aftermarket). I like the stock carrier cause it is quite a bit lighter weight than the modquad for instance. I took the modquad off cause it was at LEAST a pound if not more heavier than the stocker. I picked up the bearings for aprox. $50.00 bucks so with a little elbow grease, I should be in good shape and stay light.
Grant
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What is the bearing installer kit consist of?
Grant
Mine is similar to this:
http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_6970_200354177_200354177
If you had a large socket or something that is the same diameter as the bearings, it would work as well. The idea is when you tap the bearing in, the force is applied to the entire circumference of the bearing. This prevents the bearing from being damaged and/or getting cocked to one side or the other. If the bearing remains level with the carrier, it doesn't take much force at all to seat them in place.
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damn. I guess I didn't hit submit.... :lol:
Isn't it stupid rediculous that the pivot works or ANY aftermarket bearing kit is cheaper than OEM... ???
bastards ::)
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damn. I guess I didn't hit submit.... :lol:
Isn't it stupid rediculous that the pivot works or ANY aftermarket bearing kit is cheaper than OEM... ???
Bass Turds ::)
Wow this is great information from Dave and Frank. :thumbs:
Randy, you should make this a sticky. ;)
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Yea, that is good information. That kit has alot of different sizes, I will be lucky to come up with something the same size. One of those rare tools that makes it hard to purchase one and only use it a couple of times in a lifetime ???
Grant
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Here's one a little cheaper:
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=95853
We have a harbor freight store right down the road from us. I'd be happy to let you use mine, but you live a little farther south than I do. Would be quite a drive.
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Wow this is great information from Dave and Frank. :thumbs:
Randy, you should make this a sticky. ;)
I'll probably be doing my buddy's bearings before trail riding season in a couple months. I'll try to remember to take some pics while we are doing it. It really isn't hard to do at all. Goes quick. I was surprised at how easy it was. Cussed myself out for procrastinating so long on it. :lol:
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damn. I guess I didn't hit submit.... :lol:
Isn't it stupid rediculous that the pivot works or ANY aftermarket bearing kit is cheaper than OEM... ???
Bass Turds ::)
Randy, you should make this a sticky. ;)
Done :thumbs:
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All Balls makes great bearings. I am not sure if they carry them for the 700? I put some in my DS730 before I sold it (was a bear as it was totally frozen up) but its not a bad install at all.
Check ebay or rocky for the all balls.
Another tip to make install go even easier...is put the grease packed bearings in a ziplock inside your freezer for about an hour...than put your carrier on a cookie sheet in the over set @ about 300 for 10-15 minutes. Pull the carrier out and the bearings, and they will pretty much drop right in (you can tap them in with a plastic hammer very easily) Saves you from having to pound in the bearings!
I didnt use a bearing installer kit on the DS...just used a really large socket (I actually think it was my counter shaft socket) and it fits over the bearings perfectly.
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One thing to note for anyone thinking of going to an aftermarket carrier, the stock 700 carrier is a twin row setup. Two bearings on each side. :thumbs: The freezer/over trick will save you some serious grief, also the same type of trick for removing the stock bearings from the carrier, use a propane torch to heat the carrier and the old bearings will drop out much easier.
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Thanks for the detailed information on the freezer-oven trick, I still haven't tackled this but I will need to soon as my new swingarm should be done any time. Thanks again, I can't wait to "drop" them in. :)
Grant
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Believe you me, having them drop right in with a couple light taps is far better than trying to do it at room temp. The idea of slamming a hammer on brand new bearings just makes me cringe!
The DS730 I had was a 2001 and I did the bearings this year (so 7 years on stock bearings!)...It took 3 guys a case of beer and about 6-8 hours to get that damn job done. I learned my lesson, and will change out the bearings a little more often :)
Overall if there are no hiccups (such as a stuck axle...or the carrier gets stuck in the swinger...mine did both) then its really a simple project!
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Another tip to make install go even easier...is put the grease packed bearings in a ziplock inside your freezer for about an hour...than put your carrier on a cookie sheet in the over set @ about 300 for 10-15 minutes. Pull the carrier out and the bearings, and they will pretty much drop right in (you can tap them in with a plastic hammer very easily) Saves you from having to pound in the bearings!
I didnt use a bearing installer kit on the DS...just used a really large socket (I actually think it was my counter shaft socket) and it fits over the bearings perfectly.
Good call r00st. I forgot all about that step. Although I didn't put the carrier in the oven, I did have the bearings in the freezer before install. Really helped them go in MUCH easier.
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Thanks for all the tips guys, my brothers bearings are out and have lots of play.
Is it difficult to get the actual carrier out? ANY SUGGESTIONS?
Thanks
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Thanks for all the tips guys, my brothers bearings are out and have lots of play.
Is it difficult to get the actual carrier out? ANY SUGGESTIONS?
Thanks
The actual carrier is pretty easy. You have to take off the complete right side of the axle.. Hub, Brake rotor, and axle nut. (and make sure to take the chain off. Once that'd done loosen the 4 pinch bolts on the swinger and it should slide out to the right.
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If ya would like to do away with those pesky ball bearings :(!! then I highly suggest contacting RPM, they have the cure :thumbs:. taper roller bearings :clap:
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If ya would like to do away with those pesky ball bearings :(!! then I highly suggest contacting RPM, they have the cure :thumbs:. taper roller bearings :clap:
It would be great if Brad @ RPM had a core exchange program to minimize downtime ???
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NEVER hit your bearings with a hammer!!! Bearings are always made to tight tolerance so that the bearing stays put on the outside and spins on the inside, or visa versa. Heated aluminum becomes brittle, yes cylinders are heated to drop sleeves and such, but I'm not 100% on the temperature. There is a breakover point where it is a no-no to heat the aluminum. Just be careful as to how hot you get the pieces. IMO it is always better to press bearings in or on than whack em'. If you must whack em'... always use a piece of wood or other "buffer" to avoid direct contact between a bearing and a hammer. At least you aren't working on a 660... those rear ends are a pain in the ... rear end. LOL. :P
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All Balls makes great bearings. I am not sure if they carry them for the 700? I put some in my DS730 before I sold it (was a bear as it was totally frozen up) but its not a bad install at all.
Check ebay or rocky for the all balls.
Another tip to make install go even easier...is put the grease packed bearings in a ziplock inside your freezer for about an hour...than put your carrier on a cookie sheet in the over set @ about 300 for 10-15 minutes. Pull the carrier out and the bearings, and they will pretty much drop right in (you can tap them in with a plastic hammer very easily) Saves you from having to pound in the bearings!
I didnt use a bearing installer kit on the DS...just used a really large socket (I actually think it was my counter shaft socket) and it fits over the bearings perfectly.
I'm doing this replacement right now but have a question. Obviously there are two brgs on each side but in the pkg of new brgs I got it has two of them with a seal on the inside and outside and the other two brgs only have a seal on one side. What order do they go in? I'm guessing that it's one totally sealed brg and one half sealed brg on each side but which way does the open sid of the half sealed brg go?
Did I explain this well enough for somebody to help me out?
Thanks in advance
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Mine were placed. double sealed ones on the outside, and the single inside w/ the seal facing inside.
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that's what I thought but it always helps to have that litytle bit of reassurance form somebody who's already done it.
Thanks Randy
:thumbs:
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I just did this on my 700,it was a snap and i went the extra mile and installed a zerk fitting on the side so i can pump alittle grease in them from time to time..
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I just did this on my 700,it was a snap and i went the extra mile and installed a zerk fitting on the side so i can pump alittle grease in them from time to time..
+1
I drilled from the sproket end into the cavety between the bearings and put a grease zerk on there. I also took the shields/seals out the bearings to allow grease to get in and out. I give it a couple of pumps every so often until I see grease just coming out the main seal either end. :thumbs:
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Ask the guys at the LS trip I had a hell of a time switching mine out for a spare gunz luckily had. My was completely torn to shreads it wasnt a pretty sight.