I have 06 raptor 700r, mods include gytr intake, gytr exhaust, pciii, dynatech programble ignition, and hot cam stage three cam. After about four hours of trouble free riding and sitting there at idle the bike shut off. Tried to restart and sounded terrible and spun over very slowly. Pushed back to the trailer got home fired right up and sounded fine. Took it up the road, pulled hard then locked up again. Pushed it into the garage and pulled the cam out everything looked great. I put the stock cam back in and same thing. Any ideas would be great but i plan on pulling the head and jug off tonight. :cry: On a brighter note if it is just a bad piston what would you all recommend getting, I was looking at the 736 jug with 10 to 1 compression for pump gas. :clap:
Brian
Is your battery fully charged? Also did you check your valves? And what size bore is 736ccs? You might be thinking of 734 (106mm bore).
I replaced the battery the next day and valves were fine, sorry it is the 734 I was thinking about.
MY other question is the hc3 a drop in cam, cause I changed nothing other than setting the valves. I had been running a stage 2 for a while with no problems. I had just put in the stage 3 just before this ride.
Yes, they say you can run the stage 3 w/ stock springs still.
could be a number of things. I think your best bet is getting the head / jug off and looking @ the piston and cylinder walls.
I will post up with what I find tonight, thank you for the help. :clap:
One more question can I pull the head and cylinder off with the motor still in the bike?
yes
Quote from: Spartan727 on May 19, 2010, 02:52:01 PM
Is your battery fully charged? Also did you check your valves? And what size bore is 736ccs? You might be thinking of 734 (106mm bore).
734 is a 105.5mm Bore Pat :thumbs:
My bad, I got screwed up...106 bore is 741cc. Thanks for the heads-up sandy :thumbs:
No problem :thumbs:
Cant figure out the locking up, sluggish start could be power or decomp spring failure.
I can but I hope I'm wrong... I would caution against riding it again, even if it fires up ok. I wouldn't even hit the electric starter again yet. If you're all set to pull the head do it, but I would have removed the plug and tried turning the engine over by hand early in the process.
I pulled the head and jug off tonight, :cry: sad to say it is bottom end. Will be going 770 so any tips would be helpfull. I drain 2 quarts of oil out of it so I know oil was not a problem. What could of happened? Motor is out of the bike will post pics soon. Let me say this site is great and thank you for the help. Do not want this to happen with the 770. :thumbs:
Cant wait to see some photos. TroyWCC is a great guy to talk to about 770 builds. I did one, but I didnt deck my cylinder or match my piston to my cylinder when it was bored and coated. Also had a 48mm TB that was restricting airflow a bit. Still ended up with 72hp 60tq but there was more to be had
Right side of the crank is blue from heat left side looked normal. I was looking for a reason to build this thing, how trail friendly is the 770? :clap:
take a pic before... One side of the crank is blued from the factory not from anything you did. Thought I had a pic of it but dont. :(
The rod feels very rough when moving it. No sex jokes please, I thought this maybe the problem. Thank you for the help.
Quote from: war4g64 on May 19, 2010, 08:31:31 PM
Right side of the crank is blue from heat left side looked normal. I was looking for a reason to build this thing, how trail friendly is the 770? :clap:
if you have the nuts
Gotcha. If it feels rough, then chances are the bearings shot.
3 ways to go.
find another stocker,
put a new rod in,
+5 HR
zip it alkire......
:lol:
The blue-ing is normal, it's from when they seal it at the factory. My HR crank and my stock crank both had the blue marks on the balancer.
Quote from: Krandall on May 19, 2010, 09:08:17 PM
Gotcha. If it feels rough, then chances are the bearings shot.
3 ways to go.
find another stocker,
put a new rod in,
+5 HR
zip it alkire......
:lol:
:batman:
Quote from: Spartan727 on May 19, 2010, 09:09:39 PM
The blue-ing is normal, it's from when they seal it at the factory. My HR crank and my stock crank both had the blue marks on the balancer.
Good to know, any thing I should know before taking apart the motor to put my stoker crank in. :clap: Again thank you for the help you guys have given me.
Just say hello to the blissful days of having a stock motor and not worrying about squeezing every ounce out of it :lol: Supporting mods are a beeyutch...Is your head ported and set up with a decent cam HC3 or above?
Will be runing stock head and throttle body for now. :( I orderd the 770 last night,can I run pump gas with 11 to 1 compresion. I have a hc3 cam already, kinda what started this I guess. One more question does the 770 come with a rod? Cant wait to ride this thing with the 770 what kind of power can I expect from this set up? :clap: Thank you for help kinnda new to the 4 wheeler thing.
Brian
770 what? That's a +5 crank with a 105 bore...And yes you can run pump gas with 11:1, I am with a 5050 cam.
I dont understand. Did you order the crankshaft? Now you need to bore your cylinder or you will be running a 727. Still nice, and can be a powerful build. 770 on a stock TB with no head work and you're kind of wasting your money on boring the cylinder and ordering a new piston.
The crank comes with a rod if thats what you mean. If its Hot Rods. Usually they come with. What brand did you get?
On ModdedRaptor I have an crankshaft install "How To" that wouldnt transfer to here so I left it. Might be something to look at
My rod and crank are messed up. I bought the plus 5 crank since I have to go into the motor and replace it, upgrade or not. :( I went for the upgrade :clap: just curious about the trail rideing and any overheating issues I may have. I am new to building 4 wheeler motors but not new to building motors(for cars), I have 4 cylinder Eagle Talon with ac, power steering full weight went 9.8 @ 138 in the 1/4 on e85 with a 65 milameter turbo running 35 pounds of boost. :clap: I thank everyone on here for the help, and please if you ride at busco beach nc keep this a secret :nod:
I bought crank, piston and jug as a set. Did not know if it came with a rod, but guess it does as I have seen ours can not be removed from the crank. I orderd the kit from tech quad shop. http://tqsatv.com/proddetail.php?prod=RAPTOR-700-778CC-BIG-BORE-STROKER-KIT added link.
Ok, I worked this out. Youre getting a 105.5mm piston and a +5 Hot Rods Crank with the gaskets to match. TQS is a great place, Steve rules. But youre not getting a 770, youre getting a 778. Thats a beefy trail atv, youll love it! There is a lot of things to know when you're building the motor. I had to learn and ask questions myself. Just take pictures a lot and take it one step at a time and everyone here is very helpful.
It wont overheat. Unless your head gasket doesnt seal properly. It happens sometimes. Just deck correctly and level the head, install the gasket wet and clock/gap the piston rings right (based off the instructions with the piston, NOT what it says in the Raptor Manual.)
Toughest part, IMO, is the transmission. If you screw up the install of the tranny then you have to tear everything back apart to try again. Honestly, you dont even have to remove the tranny if you are careful and do everything right it will just stay in the case and save you the trouble. You also are going to need some special tools. Some guys use hammers and torches. I prefer the TUSK case separator, TUSK flywheel puller, and TUSK case puller. Made everything easy. Available at www.Rockymountainatv.com
I want to tell you again, thats a lot of displacement without head porting and a larger throttle body you wont get the most out of that motor. Not to mention your clutch will start to slip when you put all that power through it. You could look at some stiffer springs for your clutch while you have the motor apart. TQS also sells Ron Wood clutch springs if you want, they arent that expensive and get good reviews :thumbs:
http://www.moddedraptor.com/community/700-specific-how/8224-770-build-reference.html
most of the crank failures i see thru here are from either lack of oil changes (frequency of changes is too far apart) and poor oil quality......
run the motor on high quality FULL SYNTHETIC oil and change it often... every 4 tanks of fuel when riding sand dunes....every 2 tanks when drag/ hill racing, every 6 tanks trail riding
thats not enough for trail riding either every, 2 rides max.
I think this lack of oil problem was from when I installed the stage 3 cam, I droped a bolt into the side cover (left hand side sitting on the bike), I did not replace that gasket just put the cover back on with that gasket torn in couple places. I had no external leaks, but I am thinking I had a internal oil leak. Looking at that cover I see some oil passage ways, not sure if any of them feed the crank. When this did happen I was drag racing maybe 25 passes in one night. I was running oil from the local dealer here. I dont want this to happen again. :cry: Thank you for all the replys I have gotten, Hope to be running soon. :clap:
I will post pics as soon as I get off my lazy ass an take some. I have orderd the tool to get the flywheel off, and thank you for the link.
The oil flows through those channels. When you reinstall the covers you cant just slap them on, the old gasket that you tore must be cleaned off and either replaced or use some sort of high temp sealant until the new gasket arrives.
or you get a failure due to loss of oil
Sorry for the lack of updates, but I kinda destroyed my laptop. :cry: I would like to thank tech squad for a great deal and very quick shipping. I bought all the tools needed from rocky mount atv to get this thing rolling again. The motor is back together and in the bike after countless late nights. :clap: It seems to run well around my small yard. I have a tune issue that I will deal with tomarrow night. I need to download a couple tunes and see which one gets me close and then tune from there, any pointers would be very helpful as far wich tune I might need. The setup is stock head and throttle body, hc3 cam, 11.1 compression, stroker crank, dynatech ign., pc3 gytr intake and exhaust, 778cc. :jaw: Thank you all for the links and all the help to get this thing going. :thumbs:
Sweet! Glad to see you got it going again :thumbs:
Good to hear bro!!!!
Off topic anybody going to busco beach tomarrow? :clap:
Quote from: Alkire193 on May 19, 2010, 09:06:35 PM
Quote from: war4g64 on May 19, 2010, 08:31:31 PM
Right side of the crank is blue from heat left side looked normal. I was looking for a reason to build this thing, how trail friendly is the 770? :clap:
if you have the nuts
good question-great answer :P
Quote from: DL700 on May 21, 2010, 03:06:16 PM
most of the crank failures i see thru here are from either lack of oil changes (frequency of changes is too far apart) and poor oil quality......
run the motor on high quality FULL SYNTHETIC oil and change it often... every 4 tanks of fuel when riding sand dunes....every 2 tanks when drag/ hill racing, every 6 tanks trail riding
I change my motor oil every 10 hours or earlier when competing...
Many of my mates change it once in season or every 40 hours...thats sick :rolleyes:
cheap oil vs engine rebuild- each of us has the opportuni :thumbs:ty to choose