ive done a few quick searches and didnt find anything specific to my problems. so ill throw them all out here and see what you guys think.
first, i just put on a +2 tb and it has the high idle. it idles high upon initial cold-start, and hot-start. put it into gear, then back into neutral when HOT, and it settles back down to a normal idle. so it is idling at proper rpm in neutral, pull in the clutch and shift into gear, and it goes way high again. put it back into neutral, and it settles after 5-10 seconds. ive messed with the thumb screw, kenny said the tps was set, and i have plenty of slack in my linkage. what could this be?
second, im leaking oil out of the little clear tube on the clutch side, almost directly below the oil filter. i didnt see anything on this searching for oil leaks. what is the deal when this leaks oil? ive got a decent amount of oil/sand on my new pc'd frame from this.
last, i installed an autotuner that is not working. it is grounded to battery, fused power wire i used my rear brake light. when the bike is running, i get an almost steady red light, with real brief flashes. it appears to be getting power properly? all wires are attached to the proper color. autotuner has been enabled, i clicked accept trims, ect. ive got over 4 hours of riding with zero trim adjustments. is there any wiring im missing? i have the 1 ground, 1 power, connected to pc5 port, and the 6? wires off the o2 sensor assembly.
thats it for now.. lol.
i also had bubbling coolant today with a rising coolant level. i just did some reading, and it sounds like blown head gasket?
here is where its interesting. my oil is clean, my coolant is clean. i am down alot on oil, just barely at/below the E mark on the dipstick. the coolant bottle leaked all day. i started off at the F mark, and it kept going a bit higher. so it sounds like head gasket problems. why is it not mixing? more importantly, why?
here is my full mod list; 11:1 stock bore, stock stroke, KMS head studs @ 40 pounds. new oem gasket with copper seal, ported head, +2 tb, lte's, pro flow with k%n, stage 3 hotcam.
really frustrated a gasket went with studs on a 686 build.
For the Auto Tune, make sure your using the CAN termination plugs in both the auto tune and PCV
For the coolant leak. How was the surface of the cylinder and head preped? Were they clean and dry when installed? There is almost no reason to run head studs with a stock bore and 11.1.
When was the coolant bubbling? As far as you loosing coolant your system might have had a bubble and burped its self, thus needing more coolant. I would'nt worry too much if you loosing it out of the over flow, as long as the radiator is full. 90% of built bike will loose coolant out of the overflow. I've had my build for over two years and my overflow has always lost coolant, but it does take a HARD days of drag racing to make it go from full line to low line. My actual radiator has NEVER needed toped off.
I don't have a "heavily" built motor, but built none the less, never had coolant over flow.
i got back real late and didnt have time to drain anything. my coolant is really low in the radiator. i couldnt see any coolant looking down with a light. my bottle went from just below the full marker, to about 1 inch over the full marker and it was leaking all day from the overflow line.
that is a crankcase vent line on the clutch side im assuming? i lost alot of oil from that also. it looks like ill be tearing it down and seeing.
i cleaned the cylinder deck myself, it was dry and free of everything. the head i just got back and was immidiately put on the engine. ive read perhaps the extra torque from the studs had something to do with this?
i wont know until i tear it apart. i lost enough oil and coolant to worry about it. my oil went from the high end of the dipstick to right at the E mark. i couldnt tell you how much i lost from the radiator until i drain it.
the "oil LEAK" is actually coolant ... the clear tube is the vent(weep) hole for the water pump... u may have a bad water pump....
Has the bike been on a dyno and tuned... a lot of the high idle problems are from a rich of lean idle mixture with the throttle body set screws and air bleed misadjusted.....
ill have to take a look at it. the bike didn't overheat. my fan wasnt even on most of the day.
my oil had to have gone somewhere?
it has not been dyno tuned. my autotuner was not working properly. once i can get it to function, ill mess with the fine tuning of the throttle body.
Some things you might want to take a look at. Find out where the oil is leaking from. DL is right the tube is a coolant overflow, but when my bike was leaking oil from the the oil filter (bad O ring) it ran down the the coolant tube and at first I could not figure out why oil would be leaking from my coolant overflow. Second sounds like you have a blown head gasket, but as Preddy said try burping the radiator first incase it is just air trapped. Make sure you add coolant to the radiator, not the overflow. Your bike will not kick the fan on or temp light unless you are running it very hard. Your motor is still getting coolant as long as you keep your radiator topped off. Still this is just a temp solution unitl you can get the head off. Eventually the seal will get worse and create a vacuum. +1 Preddy is right no need for head studs on a stock 11:1 build.
im not running anything halfassed. it will get torn down now, and ill run it again when its all fixed.
i dont know where my oil went/is coming from. ill have to look closer, however there was nothing at all from the filter cover. nothing around the head, valve covers, cylinder, ect. sand gives you a real good idea where the oil is/was. i didnt see anything.
im going to take off the head and cylinder and get them checked out.
i know head studs arent needed, but they are a negative thing on a stock cylinder? i bought them for future plans of bigbore/higher compression.
IMO you should be fine with the HD studs. I have heard of some distorting the head or bottoming out. Just don't go crazy TQing them down. As for the oil maybe take a look at your clutch cover? GL let us know what you find out.
no oil around clutch cover, studs were at 40 ft lb per kms instructions.
oil clean, antifreeze clean. so now, where did the oil go?
i guess ill find out if the head gasket blew when i get the head off.
When my head gasket went , it was blowing the exhaust pressure into the coolant instead of coolant into the oil. it looked like someone was blowing bubbles into the overflow when we gave the throttle a stab. it was caused but a slight distortion in the head. the wrist pin let go an the piston hit the head causing some dents. .003" deep dent. it doesnt seem like much but enough to blow the gasket. I had to mill off some of the head to get it flat again and now shes running like a champ!
hope that helped on the coolant issue
im going to pull it all apart tonight, then taking the head/cylinder in tomorrow to get checked out.
really burnt out, so well see if i even get to ripping it apart today.
thanks for all the help though guys
i also agree with no head studs,Ihave had mine apart4 times with differentcombo's and still using stock head bolts torqued to the manuals spec's. never had a issue
use OEM gaskets..... :thumbs:
i run head studs for a little extra security...but then again im pushin 70 hp from my pump gas stock bore :rofl:
no reason not to run them, just get the kit with the HARDENED washers
i have the kms kit, are they hardened?
my build is near 70 also. in fact, someone just made 70 with it on pump gas...
i bought the studs for security too, but if the studs did not cause this, then what did? it was installed on clean, flat surfaces. i know the head was good, and the cylinder had only been exposed this one time since new and it was clean. im finishing the disassembly tonight, it made me too pissed last night.
i think the pics show pretty it pretty decent. what do you guys make from the pics? parts of the piston are clean and parts have lots of build up. give me your thoughts.. there is a spot on the gasket you can see had some heat being pushed through it. im not sure if theres a clear answer to what happened or not.. so here is pics. i think the copper spray f'd it up partially..
(http://pic4.picturetrail.com/VOL737/2692743/8256568/364166861.jpg)
(http://pic4.picturetrail.com/VOL737/2692743/8256568/364166838.jpg)
(http://pic4.picturetrail.com/VOL737/2692743/8256568/364166826.jpg)
(http://pic4.picturetrail.com/VOL737/2692743/20670029/364168326.jpg)
(http://pic4.picturetrail.com/VOL737/2692743/8256568/364166806.jpg)
DO NOT use copper spray on the OEM gaskets... thats your problem IMO... oil the nuts and washers when installing....
i only torque the studs to 35 lbs
ok. ill give that route a shot. thanks
I agree with not using copper spray. It will not hold back combustion pressure. If it is gonna leak combustion pressure, it will leak. It seals water passages ok. I highly recommend not using studs or over torquing factory fasteners unless you are running high boost or nitrous. The higher you torque the head bolts, the shorter engine and ring life get. It pulls the cylinder out of round at factory torque specs, and gets worse as you go higher. I have both cylinders and rings here with clear proof......
The answer is good engine prep. I have highlighted the main offending areas that are causing the Cometics ( and sometimes OEM) to fail. The red area will be a low spot and the blue areas will be high spots that hold the head and cylinder slightly apart, reducing clamping force on the gasket. The Cometic is very unforgiving, the OEM is far better, but does occasionally fail due to this.
(http://i233.photobucket.com/albums/ee157/kennybasham/364166806.jpg)
(http://i233.photobucket.com/albums/ee157/kennybasham/364166861.jpg)
good info kenny, thank you. for the record, i can say ive never had a head gasket problem before. i know my prep was good. im guessing the copper seal caused my issues.
ill put it together again friday with a dry oem gasket and stock bolts i think. if i use my studs, im going back down to 35.
After this weekend we should have this head gasket deal whipped..... The new gaskets should be at tonto13's house before the weekend. It is a full composite gasket with a crimped stainless fire ring. This kind of deal has caused a huge amount of grief for Raptor owners :( The new gasket should put a stop to this even with the biggest bore kits :clap: