Alright so I finally got her fired up and it purred pretty nice. I still have a few wires to tuck away and plastics on and what not so I only fired it twice for about 5 seconds.
But...the problem is, when I was going to put the tensioner assembly back in I made the (really dumb) mistake of putting pliars on the assembly while trying to back the large tensioner nut off (I originally took it out by the two allens and left the bolt/spring installed).
And...while trying to do so half of one of the bolt holes snapped off!! This sucks... I threw it in there so I just stuck it in there to test fire it knowing i need to obviously fix it lol. (instead of being a " () TENSIONER () " It now looks like this on one bolt hole " ) TENSIONER () "
I just looked the part up on Babbits online thinking it would be like 15-20 bucks....but its listed at 64.77!!!!
You have got to be KIDDING ME! Any ideas on how to make this work without dropping 70 bucks on that stupid tensioner?
How much oil pressure is in that area? I know there is significant spring pressure so I am considering trying to Braze the ear back on and sand it smooth. I will probably have to make a gasket out of actual gasket material (thicker cork stuff) so when I tighten it down it will take up any gap I made from the brazing/sanding it smooth.
Is this a dumb idea? Should I Just buy a new one? I am not sure how much oil pressure would be right there so im wondering if I try my "rigged" method if I can avoid buying a new part.
Thanks to everybody for all the help while putting this thing back together! Its nice to know that it runs but breaking the stupid tensioner really took a $hit on my parade :(
-Mike
just pick up a new one.... cant have makeshift stuff on your bike .....there is no oil pressure there but their is pressure on the =tensioner
Well it would still be locked down (as it is right now) As the bolt head is still covering half the bolt hole (half cracked off) so if I put a washer on it (after it was welded/brazed of course) it would have good pressure on it.
Hmmm I Know your right but I Just REALLY dont want to drop 70 bucks on a damn tensioner! I was hoping it came in seperate pieces (bolt/washer, spring, actual little pressure pin part) from the housing. Looks like its all ONE assembly.
Damn Damn DAMN!!!
there is not much oil pressure there, but there will be significant force acting on the tensioner.
the moving chain, at high speed, with cyclic loading will be acting on the tensioner bolts. So make sure that the fix should make it as strong as the original.
if, for any reason, it fails; it could cost you your engine, due to timing chain jumping a teeth or two
Thanks for being the voice of reason guys...lol.
I found a place selling the OEM part online for 55 plus 6 shipping...and thought what the heck I will check ebay. Found one in "mint" condition off a running 2007 for 10 + 10 shipping. MUCH better than 60+!!!
Now to button her up and break her in!
One question for you guys... The oil in there now has about 4-5 hours of use on it. Since I am OCD and want to change the oil after riding for one hour of break in, can I run this oil for an hour of break in and then change it?
Two thoughts go through my head...
A) It should be GOOD to run it as the oil has broken down a little bit and probably thinned out a bit making sure oil is getting everywhere (its Valvoline 4 stroke ATV oil for wet clutches - regular dino oil, not synthetic)
B) I should do a fresh change to two new quarts of the valvoline for 2-3 hours of initial break in, then change to one more change of dino oil for another 5-7 hours.
At that point I could safely switch to synthetic? I really like klotz 10w40 full synthetic 4 stroke oil and have 4 quarts of it in my garage. Is 10 or so hours (two changes) of dino oil enough of a break in to switch to synthetic or should I plan to run the dino oil longer?
Bummer R00st... how about this..
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/yamaha-raptor-700-timing-chain-tensioner-2006-2008_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trksidZp3286Q2em20Q2el1116QQhashZitem170217802402QQitemZ170217802402QQptZMotorsQ5fATVQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories
I would break it in with fresh non-synthetic oil :thumbs: dont try to cut any corners and try to save a few bucks cause it will just end up costing more $$$ in the long run. JMO
Thanks Krandall but I bought one off of a 2007 off ebay for 10 + 10 shipping ^^^ :)
Ya I will just change the oil now to fresh dino oil. I think I will only run it for a few hours, then change to another cycle of dino oil for about 6-7 hours. Think that is enough time (say 10 hours) to switch to synthetic?
:thumbs: